What should models go to college for?

An intimate conversation with supermodel Kate Moss from 1993

Here is the interview as it was published back then. So, sit back and relax for a glimpse into the teenage life of the world's most popular supermodel:

"I love reality — things like bad posture, blank looks, slimness ... such things are normal for teenagers. Women have forgotten what it is to be young." That's what photographer Corinne Day said not long ago when she snatched a skinny schoolgirl from Croydon and helped redefine the '90s beauty aesthetic. In doing so, she also created one of the greatest fashion phenomena of the decade.


Also on i-D: Beauty Tribes from A to Z


That phenomenon was mini-model Kate Moss. Kate Moss is 19 years old, just under 1.70 meters tall and weighs around 48 kilograms. Her face and body helped quite a few similarly orphan-looking Models on the catwalks and in the fashion series around the world. At the same time, newspaper articles criticized the propagation of what they believed to be an unattainable ideal of beauty for most women. An outcry caused by this new vision of beauty only got through the media a few months ago after Vogue published a photo series by Day of an extremely young-looking Moss in cheap underwear in a dingy apartment. "Pedophile!" shouted the front pages. But Kate Moss has long been of legal age and the shock was probably primarily that of a new world order that has yet to be found.

In 1993 fashion itself subjected itself to a reality check. Excessive extravagance is now considered a tad tasteless. The focus of interest has now shifted to a movement that rejects glamor in favor of accepting the political and economic turmoil of our time. Reality invades the secluded world of couture. The current shift is taking place from a focus on hard-edged gloss to a more individual eclecticism. After the unnatural glamor of the 80s, a change was sorely needed. Perfection has become boring. People want something less artificial - an alternative to what is conventionally considered good-looking.

This development also ties in with the revolution that has taken place in editorial photography. Photographers like Corinne Day, Nigel Shafran, Kate's on-off friend Mario Sorrenti, David Sims and Jürgen Teller are just as interested in personalities as they are in proportions. You are no longer looking for old-school girls 'indulging in the camera.' It would be too easy to call it reality now - fashion inevitably requires us to be illusory - but it is definitely a step in the right direction.

Kate is the face of a beauty sans artifice - So without couture dresses and high heels, without collagen, silicone and half a cosmetics department on the body. With her unwashed hair and Adidas sneakers, she reflects reality - or at least a version of reality - that understands beauty as something deeper than a series of flaws that need to be hidden. It's about changing people's perception of what is acceptable and what is not. The flaws of the models have traditionally always been made invisible by make-up and skillful camera settings. Today there is a growing idea of ​​accepting girls for who they are - even if they deviate from the traditional ideal of 'beauty'.

For Kate, the time was now more than ripe. After years of unpaid work for English magazines like this one, she was photographed for a gigantic Calvin Klein campaign with American teen idol Marky Mark, appeared in TV commercials for the Vauxhall Corsa, advertised Versace, and was the face of Yves Saint Laurent's obsession and featured on hundreds of magazine covers and fashion spreads. Her private life was something of fair game for the gossip columns and every step she took was documented by the tabloids. She is the face of the new wave of British fashion talent who have taken over the world.

However, it always looks the same. Regardless of whether she is photographed with other supermodels in a classy club or with friends on Portobello Road, she always wears tattered jeans and her hair tied into a messy ponytail. That's one of the reasons she's so special - part of what sets her apart from the rest of the other skinny models. What else is characteristic of them? Just look at these pictures with their strange combination of innocence and sexuality and think for yourself.

Where are you right now and what is your environment like?
I'm in Paris in my rented apartment and it's really nice.

Describe yourself in three words.
Oh God! Fortunately, I drank my coffee beforehand. Um, I don't know. Can I come back to this later? I wouldn't say sexy. I don't think I'm funny, but some friends think so ... I think sometimes. What else? No idea.

Your favorite band?
Oh, I have a lot. I like the Rolling Stones and Radiohead and Suede and ... The Velvet Underground.

And your favorite record?
I'm not sure right now, but for a while it was Venus As A Boy by Björk.

How do you spend a perfect Sunday afternoon?
Just chilling. Do nothing. Like yesterday, I have the whole time East Enders looked and cooked. I don't like to cook, but I like to eat. So my friend cooks and I eat. Then we sat around, drank wine, played backgammon and watched videos. Nothing exciting, but a successful day.

What do you spend most of your money on?
Clothes probably. I don't buy a lot, but I spend more money on it than going out.

Your favorite designers?
John Galliano, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Vivienne Westwood.

And your favorite piece of clothing?
Vivenne just gave me tons of pieces and there is this pink and cherry red mohair dress that is really cute. Oh, and I've really tried, but I really can't part with my Adidas sneakers.

What you do in your free time?
Invite friends, listen to music and talk ... oh, and shop! Often!

What does a perfect evening look like for you?
First to a restaurant and then to a club where all my friends are. A club in London, a wacky one.

And who would be your ideal date?
Keanu Reeves. Ooh, I think a lot of people are sexy.

First crush?
That was Matt Dillon, but I had a crush on a guy named Scott Wilson at school. But really! I kissed him once, but after that we just became friends. I was 14 I think. I've seen Matt Dillon in clubs but haven't spoken to him. He has a bad reputation in New York, so I preferred to stay away.

Do you like Marky Mark? You did the Calvin Klein campaign with him.
No. Not really. He wasn't into me either. I believe. We just weren't the right type for each other. He's that young homeboy guy when really young, and he likes girls with big butts, big boobs and stuff. So I don't really fit in there.

How does it feel to be the object of so much male attention?
I don't know if I am a sex symbol. I don't think that's me. No idea! It's cute that teenage boys want to hang pictures of you on their walls. I am not spoken to that often anymore. People are intimidated by me now. I was approached much more often in the past.

What was the best pick-up you've ever heard?
My ex-boyfriend (Mario Sorrenti) told me that he would like to take pictures of me. I gave him my number and he called me to tell me he wanted to model me. That was funny. I don't use sayings or anything myself. I'm just flirting.

How much do you have to drink to be drunk?
A lot! It also depends. After I've eaten, I can drink all night, but it depends on the circumstances and what else I've been up to. I prefer to drink gin and tonic. Thats so yummy!

What is your biggest weakness?
Not knowing when to say no, when to stop everything. Knowing when to say no, but then not to say no. Knowing that you should really do it but still not do it is a major weakness of mine. Oh, and not calling anyone back and keeping in touch with my family.

Now the boring question: have you always wanted to be a model?
No. I wanted to travel but didn't know how. I thought I was going to college and doing tourism or something boring like that. Fortunately I don't have that, otherwise I would be sitting in a travel agency now.

How were you before you started modeling?
I was pretty shy at school. I was the girl all the boys were friends with, but not necessarily the girl the boys were into. I didn't have a real boyfriend, I just hung out with the guys - like one of them.

Ever broken the law?
Yeah, but I never got caught! But nothing serious. Things like taking a few things in the supermarket. But I never took anything with me myself, I just couldn't do it. I was way too paranoid, but my friends did that and I confessed to goo.

Should cannabis be legalized?
Yes.

Do you smoke yourself
Yes. Who would say no today? Nobody hides it anymore, and it's not really like a drug either. People just take it out of their pocket and spin it.

There are rumors that various girls used drugs to keep their weight down when the Paris collections were presented last month. Is that true?
I've never been paranoid about my weight, so I would never go to extremes. I don't know anyone who does that either. It is ridiculous. Though, I may know one, but she's just a friend's roommate. I don't think many girls do that.

Do you have to be careful what you eat?
No. Never have I ever been on a diet. But I can put on weight. When I'm in Paris during the shows, I lose weight from rushing around all the time, but when I'm in L.A. or New York, I gain weight. Not a lot, but people notice.

Have you ever wanted to swap the thin Kate Moss look for, shall we say, the curves of Helena Christiansen?
Yes, all the time. I always wanted to have silicone implants in the past! Not now, but when I was younger I really wanted tits. I was desperate. I would still like to have a little more, but as long as they don't grow by themselves ...

But it is being said now that personality is more important than proportion in the fashion business.
I don't think that's really true. I think it's more about the photographers expressing their personality and less about the girls showing their personality. Do you understand what I mean? Everyone says fashion is more realistic now. It is not really realistic. Especially for the model is. Probably more so for the photographers because they are the interpreters. They are the ones with the vision. But personality is really important right now. Sensitivity. It's more than just a photo with clothes on. It's gotten pretty boring. Then you could just as easily take catalog photos. Now you have to pack emotions in. That has changed.

Is there anything you wouldn't do in a photoshoot?
I wouldn't wear fur, but you don't ask that much anymore. Otherwise it depends on the time of day and the photographer. Sometimes you do something because you know the photographer and know that the images are not taken out of context. Sometimes you look at the things to wear and think, 'How ugly!' But it's your job and that's how you put them on and work with them.

You already like to be photographed, don't you?
No! I don't mind being on a set anymore, but I still don't like snapshots. The undercover photographers are the worst though. You don't even notice that they are taking a picture of you and the next day it's in the newspaper and you just think: 'Shit!' It's so annoying.

Has the success changed you?
In a way, he does that even if you don't want to. There is nothing you can do about it, your environment and your life are so different. But I'm still the same person, it just affects your perspective.

Do you think your success will change the modeling business? Have you paved the way for other girls who didn't meet the usual modeling criteria?
In a way, I have, but the fashion industry is like a flock of sheep. When someone does something, everyone else does it. But I think it's great. Now you have wider and petite girls, and not just that one accepted size and shape.

What is more important to you right now: money, fame or sex?
Oh, definitely sex! In addition to money or fame, it absolutely has to be sex.

Are you ever paranoid about the way you look?
Sometimes when I get up in the morning and look in the mirror and think, 'Shit, you look worn out.' By the way, I'm looking a bit finished right now. I have to get a tanning bed sometime. I'm always so cheesy and white.

Another boring question: where do you see yourself in ten years?
I don't want to model as long as Lauren Hutton, but I don't know what else I'll do. Something will work out. I thought about doing photography because you can learn so much about how it all works on set. But I do not know. A lot of my friends are photographers and I don't want to be one too.

There was some excitement a few months ago about an underwear shoot you did for British Vogue. It has been criticized in the media for looking underage in it.
That felt strange. I could have said something about it at the time, but then I would have gone to join them in the arena. So I left it. I knew that the pictures weren't meant to be as everyone had suggested. It was really nothing and they made such a fuss about it. They keep writing things about you that aren't true at all - it ends up going in one ear and out the other. At that point, I was like, 'Oh God, that's bad to say something like that.' Pedophile, argh! But you mustn't let that get to you.

Now there is speculation in the media about Tania Court (the i-D cover girl October) whether she is anorexic or not.
She's thin, but so are many other girls. What should she do? Stop working so that they no longer make young girls anorectic or make them insecure about their own body image, as everyone claims? Just to make other people happy? She won't turn down the jobs. In the end, it's the people who hire them. These are the ones who pay their money. If they don't listen to the media, why should they? It is the same for me. I'm like, 'Oh my god, what am I supposed to do? Eat and put on weight and then everyone is happy? ' It's like this: why should we try to please people who have nothing to do with us or our lives?

Don't you sometimes fear that there is something to these accusations that models affect the way women see themselves?
Women will always worry about their looks. When Cindy was all the rage, everyone wanted silicone implants to enlarge their tits. Now they say everyone gets anorexic because models are so thin right now. I don't think women are stupid enough to look at magazines and think, 'Oh God, I have to be this thin to look good too.' As long as they're comfortable in their own skin, they won't care what is in a fashion newspaper. I hope so, at least.

And this 'waif' word [in German, for example: orphan, homeless] ...
It's just a label that people want to use. And it's incredibly stupid. What is the meaning of waif anyway? I am not a lost, malnourished child or whatever that is supposed to mean.

Last but not least, are you a tax evader?
I'm not telling you that! I really can't do that, otherwise the tax investigation will be on my neck. I'm not talking about money, it's totally insensitive. You get really weird stuff, you know, and when you talk to normal people about it, they just say, 'Damn it, why wasn't I born beautiful?' Somebody said that to me only recently. Well, I'm already working hard, but it's just a different kind of work. I don't like to talk about it though.

But you make a fortune. So money isn't important?
No, it is not important to be rich. Everyone has to have some money, of course - that's important. Just a little is good.

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