Really stops bars leak from cooler leaks

Dry the radiator sealant. Sealant for car radiators - saves you soldering

Most drivers are well aware of the situation when suddenly there is a leak in the cooling system and it is impossible to replace the pipe, tighten the clamps or repair the radiator. In such a situation, sealants for the cooling system will help to independently get to the repair site. After reading the article, you will learn how to apply and select sealants, how to assess them and the consequences of abuse.

The history of the appearance of sealants

Before the advent of industrially produced sealants, motorists had to independently look for ways to urgently seal the cooling system.

Who first came up with the idea of ​​pouring mustard into a punched radiator is unknown.

This method turned out to be very effective and made it possible to add water to the cooling system and drive on to the repair site on your own. Mustard Rescued Limited Drivers Soviet Troops Finally, in the Republic of Afghanistan, after pouring it into the radiator of the cooling system and adding water, the car easily traveled 300-500 kilometers.

Mustard was poured into the cooling system to get to the repair site. As a result, both radiators were also replaced. In the photo the engine heat sink, only two of the cells of which were not clogged.

Over time, the chemical industry dominated the production of various substances, the use of which made it possible to eliminate the leakage of the cooling system and get to the place of repair. These substances have been called sealants for engine cooling systems.

What are sealants used for?

Two leading companies in auto chemistry: ABRO and Hi-Gear, these manufacturers are recommended by most of Lifanovodov

Any sealant will interfere with the operation of the cooling system, so it is only used as a last resort to get to the repair site or home. At the point of the leak, a seal is created, which reduces the throughput action. In the rest of the cooling system, a gel-like deposit forms on the bottom of the pipes, hoses and the radiator.

The radiator and hoses of the cooling system are clogged with such dirt after applying sealant

Severe deterioration in the cooler ducts

Another place where the sealant greatly reduces work efficiency is in the cooler ducts.

And the radiator was clogged with dirt that clogged its ducts. The engine started to overheat. The radiator can be cleaned and soldered, but the cooling system now contains a lot of dirt.

But dirt came in through the holes in the radiator, and now all this dirt in the entire engine cooling system

Spiral vortices made of textolite or plastic are installed in the ducts, which improve the heat transfer from the coolant (coolant) to the cooler surface. The sealant settles on the surface of the vortex, reducing the channel capacity and the strength of the vortex effect. Therefore, the sealant is not used as a preventive or repair tool, but only as an emergency tool to prevent leaks. After that, you need to thoroughly flush the cooling system and change the coolant.

Types of sealants

There are two main types of sealants:

Powder sealers work in a similar way to mustard.As they absorb the coolant, they swell and form a blockage at the edge of the leak, which prevents the coolant from escaping. They are effective when the diameter, length or width of the leak does not exceed 1.5 mm. In the case of larger leaks, these sealants are useless.

Polymer seals harden on contact with oxygen.After the sealant is poured into the radiator, it mixes with the coolant, then enters the leak and hardens under the influence of oxygen. This type of sealant is effective when the diameter, length or width of the leak does not exceed 1 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages of using sealants

The advantages of using sealants are obvious - the ability to get to the repair site and protect the engine from overheating.

After all, it is not always possible to call a tow truck. Therefore, good sealants are very effective as an emergency measure for small leaks.

Video example of how the sealant in the Liqui Moly cooling system works

While it will be necessary after its application, it is ten times easier and cheaper than replacing the cylinder head and doing thorough engine repairs after the engine overheats.

The disadvantage of using a sealant is that with its help it can remove very little damage, and the mileage of a car should not be more than 100 kilometers before a full repair. Ultimately, any sealant alters the operation of the cooling system. The passage of coolant through the radiator deteriorates, the efficiency of heat transfer decreases, and the engine temperature rises.

Seasoned motorists have likely faced the problem of a car coolant leak more than once. There are several explanations for this phenomenon. First, large changes in temperature conditions cause irreversible changes in the molecular structure of the metal. As a result, microcracks are formed in the walls of the pipes of the cooling system, through which antifreeze begins to flow. Second, the material used to make the components of such systems is very often very worn out, which only makes the problem worse. Of course, it is best to replace the damaged part immediately, but due to various circumstances it is not always possible.

In cases where the gap that occurs is relatively small, it can be sealed or removed with the help of special sealants. Similar chemical active ingredients are offered nowadays in different types. So, if you want to get a high quality result, you need to have an idea of ​​their characteristics and, in particular, the speed at which the resulting cracks will be eliminated.

1. Testing

Most sealantwhich are used to repair cracks in the vehicle cooling system, consist of organic components - For example powder made from ginger root, mustard or mineral fertilizers. On the packaging of each such product, the manufacturer indicates all the functional additives, which allows the buyer to choose the most optimal composition for each specific situation. All preparations are presented in the form of opaque liquids of brown or greenish hue with large flakes inside.

The main advantages of such sealants are their ease of use and their relatively low cost, which avoids unnecessary material costs. All sealants do a good job with leaks, but at the same time, many of them seriously clog the cooling ducts. As a result, deposits in the pipes impede the normal circulation of the coolant, and instead of a problem, you have the opportunity to get all three: a clogged radiator, overheating of a car engine and an inoperable stove in the car.

The second type of seal preparation is made on the basis of metallized polymers. During the circulation of antifreeze and sealant in the cooling system, polymer particles literally adhere to the edges of the holes that have formed, closing them. As soon as the coolant flow is stopped, the polymers are immediately suspended in a. Simply put, you're just creating some kind of dynamic system that isn't limited to the details.

Of course, each product has its drawbacks, and sealants of the second type (with metallized polymers) are no exception to the rule. With such preparations, only small holes with a diameter of up to 1 mm can be effectively removed. More significant loopholes are simply beyond their control.

To tell the truth, there are simply no regulations or standards for sealants for car cooling systems today. Therefore, every driver often needs to check the effectiveness of this or that tool based on his own experience. The essence of such a test is to simulate a leak, the occurrence of which causes the natural wear and tear of the radiator.

For example, holes 0.3-1mm in diameter can be drilled in pipes that simulate microcracks or the effects of a blow with a small stone. The main indicator of any such sealant is the speed of problem elimination, that is, the tightening of the holes.

The extent of deposits on various components of the cooling system and the durability of such a "seal" are also evaluated. But what's the best sealant for your car's cooling system? Numerous tests on a variety of agents have identified the leader on this matter which has become an agent BBF... The smallest holes, the diameter of which does not exceed 0.5 mm, can be closed with them within a minute. This way you can save the remaining coolant in the system.

To repair major damage (often caused by a collision with other cars or a road fence), you need to spend a little more time and wait three minutes. In addition, the price of BBF is very affordable, which only adds to its advantages, especially when compared to other similar formulations.

This sealant is supplied in liquid form and is based on polymers to prevent heavy deposits on all components of the cooling system. The tests carried out showed that the anti-freeze drain hole remained completely open and only minor growths appeared on the nozzles, which can be easily removed by flushing with a chemical agent or by mechanical cleaning.

At the same time, the mass of the pump impeller, thermostat and radiator has remained practically unchanged. This means that most of the sealant did the required job and tightened the holes in the radiator of the cooling system. In addition, all the experiments carried out fully demonstrated the high resistance of the composition to changes in temperature of the antifreeze. The formation of new holes takes place only after 100 hours, which means that not only can you get to the next service, but you can also go about your business for a while.

In theory, using a BBF joint (if constantly added to the system) can significantly extend the life of a damaged radiator. However, it is best to completely get rid of the problem by replacing the part or doing more serious soldering.

2. Not the worst option

In addition to the BBF sealant already described, the American compound gained a high reputation Hi-GearRecommended by the manufacturer for more complex repairs to car cooling systems. This polymer sealant eliminates even the largest cracks, but it lasts almost three times longer than the version previously described.

This product is in the form of a blue-green fibrous substance which, after stirring, eliminates the problem of cracks formed. One pretty strange fact is that leaks can stop and start again if they want. A full "seal" (according to the tests performed) will only occur after the coolant has been completely drained.

Hi-Gear could be cited as the most successful way of solving the problem of leaks, if not for a "but". The fact is that the high binding properties of the composition contribute to the formation of plugs, even if they are not needed at all (for example, in the drainage hole), and the speed of action is not fast and stable. It is also observed relatively high levels of residual deposits.

With a hole 1mm or more in diameter, you will have to abandon quick repairs, as the coolant will have time to leave before the crack is completely eliminated. Therefore, it is best to prepare two cans of sealant at the same time or to adhere to a strict dosage the first time you use it.

I have to say that when restoring the cooling system with Hi-Gear sealant, you should always be prepared for unexpected consequences. If the connection closes the drain hole or works very slowly, you will need to use a knife or screwdriver to add coolant. In addition, the deposits in the cooler tubes and on the impeller are not insignificant, although they do not exceed the safety limits.

3. Optimal choice

Even if it seems to you that there are no significant differences between sealants from different manufacturers, they still affect the technical condition of the vehicle in different ways. The most acceptable option to quickly fix the problem is BBF and LiquiMoly products, which can seal cracks in the shortest possible time and without serious negative consequences.

But even in such cases, there is no need to cherish futile illusions, since a complete solution to the problem can only be guaranteed by auto-service specialists who will solder the radiator or completely replace it. If you still haven't had the opportunity to more seriously address the problem of completely and permanently eliminating radiator leaks, try the old folk method. Pour mustard powder into the hot coolant and it will "plug" any holes almost immediately. True, as a result of such an event, you need to flush the system for a long time.

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And then things ended sadly: the sealant clogged all the thin pipes it could, the thermostat stuck, and the sealant deposits were even in the antifreeze duct of the gas reducer. Because of this, I decided to repeat the application of this sealant, but this time to make sure the crash didn't happen to us. I will immediately make a reservation that I do not believe in miraculous properties and then we will continue diagnosing the leak until the radiator is replaced.

Now is the time to read the instructions.

Metal-ceramic sealant "HI-GEAR METALLIC-CERAMIC RADIATOR & BLOCK SEAL", 444 ml HG9043
Compatibility: Safe for all types of cooling systems. Compatible with any coolant. Can be used with water.
The use of the drug does not cause difficulties even for beginners - it is enough to carefully read and follow the instructions.
1. Stop the engine and let it cool down.
2. Remove the cooler cap, shake the bottle vigorously and pour the composition into the cooler. If there is no radiator cap, disconnect the upper hose, pour the connection through the upper radiator pipe and reconnect the hose or pour the connection into the expansion tank after draining 2-3 liters of coolant.
3. Fill the coolant level to normal.
4. Open the heater tap fully, if the design allows it.
5. Start the engine and let it warm up, idling at medium speed (2000-3000 RPM) for 5-7 minutes.
6. Stop the engine and let it cool down.
7. Add coolant to the standard and operate the car as normal.
The agent can remain in the cooling system indefinitely and prevent further leaks.
The packaging is designed for a cooling system up to 22 liters.

Interestingly, this sealant also works with water. I tried to liquidate the moth - it doesn't work with water.

Let us begin.
First, let's see what about the leak now. Dried frost protection streams are no longer visible.

The last time I looked at this place was 4,753 km ago. Then I wiped everything there to make sure it was clean, but now there are no more stains to be seen.

I took some antifreeze from the expansion tank with a large hydrometer pipette.


I probably don't know why to play it safe. For one, and appreciate it by sight. Not cloudy. Next I decided to remove the secure gas reducer from the sealant and cut off the heating line of the gearbox. Just like I cut the gas heating line before. To do this, you need such a fitting.


You'll need to modify it a little with a file (who would doubt it), remove the hoses from the gearbox, and place that fitting there.


The bottom hose didn't want to be removed but gave way and I put the hose on the edge of the rack.


Now the sealant. It's all about the dose. The last time I poured half a can (approx. 200 ml) into the expansion tank, I now limit myself to half. I think 100-110 ml is enough. Diluted with a little antifreeze. The sealant didn't pucker, didn't peel off.If it reacts with antifreeze it is not clear how.

Well mixed. I poured it into the expansion tank and started the engine. While the engine was idling, I made sure that the fitting wasn't leaking and vacuumed the underbody under the passenger carpet.


When I realized that a few minutes of idling was nonsense, I drove 25 km. By the way, the gas does not turn on without heating the reducer. It's understandable, but it was interesting to check for yourself. The gasoline detonation is either present or not. Incomprehensible. Most likely it is in a narrow speed range. As a result, I looked in the expansion tank, the antifreeze doesn't look terrible.


That's why I decided to return the transmission's heater. This time I didn't drain the antifreeze from the tank, just unscrewed the plug. After the branch pipe was separated from the connector, it immediately flowed out of the branch pipe. Lumps of sealing were not found on either the pipes or the fittings. I connected the pipes to the gearbox and drove on.

In general, if I do not create the "cleaning the cooling system" topic in two days, everything will be fine. And we will bring the radiator closer to winter if it leaks.


Update 09/25/2016
The sealant swims in the coolant for almost 600 km. Here the coolant is mixed immediately after driving more than 20 km, ie and after 3.5 hours of parking.


I don't see any differences, the point is.
Current mileage: 182809 km.

Update 05/10/2016
I lifted the floor to see if the stove was stained. And they are not.


There are some traces of dirt but there are no visible stains like before. But I took a rag anyway and wiped it there.


And the garbage in the trough under the carpets is full, as I understand it, that's all from the foam mat and pours.


You need to put something between the metal and the foam rubber. We will meet here in another thousand km.
Current mileage: 183,737 km.

Update 10/15/2016
I drove down the freeway, took a cursory look at the order and there ... There the arrow is also a bit in sync with the fuel level arrow.


ALSO for Multitronik 68 ° C. If everything is clear with gasoline, yesterday I poured 10 liters into an almost empty tank, then everything is not so easy with antifreeze, yesterday it was full expansion tank. Low temperature can indirectly indicate a lack of level, which I have noticed for a long time. First, the indicator gauge will show a temperature below its usual midpoint, and when the antifreeze completely disappears, the temperature will rise, indicating overheating. I don't know why that is, but I don't care. Underheating is not overheating, we'll find out later, maybe something is clogged somewhere in the radiator. Maybe the thermostat is open, we're testing the sealant here, so be surprised. Side effects There is nothing. In general, I don't have time to stop and find out. I will go further. Another thing is that if the reducer is not heated, the gas will be inefficiently metered.

So I drove a little further to the stop and looked into the expansion tank. The level in the tank is slightly below the middle. Antifreeze looks like this.


I understand that it is wrong to check the antifreeze level for completeness immediately after a long time (there is antifreeze - and good), but I still put some water in the middle. In the morning after an overnight stay we will see what is there with the level. Only now will I change this liquid because I diluted it with water, but then. The whole time the car was driving and it didn't rise above 71 ° C. And then he got up and the temperature rose to 91 ° C. Obviously something is clogged somewhere or the plug is airy. You need to change the fluid.
Current mileage: 184,831 km, the sealant already floats 2,617 km in the system.

Update 10/16/2016
I replaced the last photo yesterday with antifreeze with a collage from yesterday and today is the same. On the left is yesterday's antifreeze after actively driving 184831 km, on the right is today's morning, after an overnight stay of antifreeze, its mileage is 185,015 km. Also today I pulled out the floor mat. After going there last time, I climbed 1278 km. I didn't find any stains, but there are traces of moisture there.


There are no open spots from red antifreeze. But there is dirt there. Whether it came here from the mat or leaked out of the oven is a mystery.


The mat is also damp on the outside, as is the carpet.


The rainy season - maybe that's a different matter ...
Current mileage: 185,015 km.

Update 10/17/2016
What can I say on the subject? I'm driving now and the indicator of the TOZH on the neat one shows the middle, the cartoon shows 79 ° C. Everything seems to be fine. But it's worth stopping, getting out of the car, going back in a dozen or two minutes and moving on, then the indicator needle does not rise again from the ordinary, the cartoon shows around 60 ° C, in short, it's bad. If you then stop out of curiosity and look into the expansion tank, the lid does not turn out to be a typical PSH-Hi lid when unscrewed. And when the display gauges show the norm, the lid pulls, so I just peeked in, released the pressure, started it again, and drove the remaining miles on supercooled antifreeze. Hello cap.

Update 10/23/2016
I found my old cover at home. Once I proactively changed it without waiting for it to break. Those. it's more or less functional. Only she has a sawn feather, but well, put it on. After traveling for a couple of days I can say the temperature behavior hasn't changed much on the better side ... Still, it's low. Not always, but very often. In general, it is necessary to change the fluid and urgently.

Update 10/25/2016
The next floor revision is 1252 km after the previous one. Here is the liquid and the mat.


The mat is wet, he's going home to dry on a radiator. Well, finally I waited for the stain to show up.



The annealing on the routes from Chernigov to Kharkov made a mark on us. That's it, change the liquid with the sealant and get ready for the oven heater.
Current mileage: 186267

Mileage: 182,214 km

Even the most reliable cars experience annoying breakdowns. They are minor but can cause some inconvenience for drivers. Therefore, the reasons for leaks often flow - drops in temperature that contribute to the development of thermal fatigue in pipes with thin walls. As a result, microcracks appear in the pipeline, from which the coolant leaks. The problem can be solved by simply replacing a tired and current part, but the required part is not always put up for sale. If there is a leak along the way, a sealant will help you solve the problem with these tools.

History of the sealant

When these resources did not exist, the problem of radiators and cooling systems leakage was already acute for motorists. I had to look for simple ways that could help urgently seal the system if necessary.

So it used to be dry mustard. When added to a coolant, the composition in the form of a powder can very quickly reduce or completely eliminate coolant leaks. But after using such "medicine" it was necessary to wash everything. Ultimately, the powder not only clogged microcracks, but also all cavities in the cooling system. Mustard is no longer used today. But then the drivers drove with their help from 300 to 500 km. This recipe was very helpful for the drivers to survive. soviet army in afghanistan.

The modern chemical industry is constantly evolving and has already mastered the production of a wide variety of means that will allow you to quickly eliminate leaks and get to the gas station. There are many types of these remedies. Drivers are often interested in what is the best sealant for the cooling system. Reviews are also of interest to car owners. Testimonials are way better than any ad. They show how effective a particular tool is in reality.

Sealing tasks

These products are not a panacea and do not permanently fix leaks.

Any substance also degrades the operation of the cooling system. Therefore, it is recommended to use this chemistry only in the most extreme and extreme case, when it is very far to get to the nearest gas station.

Deterioration of the channels in the radiator

The use of sealing compounds significantly reduces the efficiency of the cooler. So the channels are blocked. Textolith or plastic spirals are installed in modern radiators, which are intended to improve the transfer of heat from the coolant to the radiator surface. The sealant settles on the surface of these spirals and thereby not only reduces the throughput of the channels as a whole, but also the vortex effect considerably. Because of this, those who have used a sealant for the engine cooling system give reviews and advice that it is not a means of prevention. The effective method to prevent leakage in an emergency. After using the product, the entire system must be thoroughly flushed and damaged parts replaced.

Cooling system sealant

There are two types of these funds. The:

  • powder formulations;
  • polymer-based products.

Powdered products act like mustard. The coolant is absorbed by the powder, swells and adheres to the edge of the crack. At this point, a blockage forms which will stop the fluid from leaking. Powder sealing is very effective for small crack diameters.

Therefore, the hole diameter should not exceed 1.5 mm. If the crack is larger, then using these tools will not work.

Polymer compositions cure when they come into contact with oxygen. After the composition is poured into the system, it is mixed with the cooling mixture. Then the composition, together with the coolant, enters the site of the leak, and under the influence of oxygen, the solidification process begins. These tools are effective, but only if the hole diameter is no more than 1 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages of sealants

The advantages are obvious - this is the opportunity to get to the nearest gas station and protect the engine from overheating. After all, it is not always possible to call a tow truck. However, the effectiveness of this auto chemistry is only shown for small leaks. It is important to choose a good sealant for the engine cooling system. Reviews of those who have already used these funds will help you choose.

Reviews say this. The disadvantages of these formulations are that you can only get to the place of repair and eliminate only small defects. The entire system should be thoroughly flushed after use. However, this is much easier than replacing the cylinder head and running overheating after overheating.

The mileage of the vehicle with sealant should not be more than 100 km. After all, these substances significantly affect the operation of the cooling system. The flow of the cooling mixture through the radiator deteriorates significantly, the efficiency of the heat transfer also decreases significantly and the engine temperature rises.

Fillinn

This is a domestic product but is custom made for Pride USA.

The product is an emulsion based on a white polymer. The composition is very easy to shake and once it gets into the tank, it starts to work.

When testing for sealing holes in a steel pipe, the largest 1mm hole could not be handled and there are a total of four such holes. They are 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm, and 1mm. The rest of the holes didn't clog up anytime soon, however. In addition, the product leaves a lot of deposits.

The price of this composition is democratic, but in case of serious damage it will not help. He took the last sixth place in the ranking. Owner reactions to this sealant for the engine cooling system are neutral. Nothing good can be said about him. But as an inexpensive train to help you get to the gas station, it will do.

Gunk Radiator Sealer Super

This product is made in the USA. The price is 160 rubles. It's a thick brown mix. It works quickly and efficiently. The product was able to close all holes almost at the same time. However, there is too much debris. This can be very dangerous if the cooler is old and dirty enough. This product requires knowledge of how to flush the engine cooling system sealant.

We can say that the product is actually effective. The working speed is also at a good level ... But among the minuses there is a large amount of residual pollution. Again, however, this is a budget option for an emergency.

Hi-Gear Stop Leak

Here the manufacturer is also the USA. The product is a blue-green fibrous substance. After the composition was thoroughly mixed, its work seemed rather strange. The leaks stopped and reappeared. The first test hole was not clogged until all of the liquid left the cooling system tank. The product even clogged the drain.

The judgment is highly efficient because plugs are formed even in sufficiently large holes. The work of the train is slow, convulsive. The deposition rate is also high. Price - from 190 rubles, which is also very budgetary.

K seal

These products are also designed and manufactured in the USA. The price of the bottle is 430 rubles. It is quite a thick emulsion brown ... The composition contains a special copper powder, which creates strong plugs. The drug is effective. However, with large holes, the speed will decrease. However, there are practically no residual deposits here. It is also a quality sealant for the engine cooling system. Reviews about him are only positive.

Liqui Moly

These are German sealants containing metal. After draining the liquid, the sediment sparkles in all the colors of the rainbow. This is a real leader among all products in terms of speed of operation and the leaks stopped and never happened again. At a price of 200 rubles, the number of deposits is below average.

BBF "Super"

It is a household sealant for the engine cooling system. The BBF reviews are generally positive. The product is a white emulsion. This composition works very effectively and corresponds to the classic mixture. The holes are closed from the smallest to the largest. There are practically no deposits. The composition is made on a polymer basis and the plugs in the holes are small and clean. In addition, the approximate price of this composition is only 50 rubles. Despite its low cost, the product showed top marks among all.

How to flush the sealant for the engine cooling system

It is recommended that you flush the cooling system thoroughly after using these connections.

However, this is not possible with plain water. Special means have to be used here.

Liqui Moly cleaner

This product is designed to remove a wide variety of contaminants from SOD, including sealant residue, which could affect the proper operation of the system. The product does not contain any aggressive substances. It can be used in most systems. You can easily wash off any sealant used on the engine cooling system. Reviews - the cylinder head after this cleaner remains without debris.

Lavr - for hard dirt

It is a two-component formulation that helps to clean even heavily clogged cooling systems.

It cleans all cavities of the system from scale and destroys other impurities. The drug helps remove various impurities from the system.

The product is made alkaline and can dissolve fat and other products. The product also neutralizes the effects of acidic agents, and washing with this medicine is completely safe.

There are other manufacturers in the market that offer similar products. However, you need to know exactly which product is high quality. From what type of sealant for the engine cooling system (reviews help to evaluate the strong and weak sides) depends on the quality of the cooling system and the entire vehicle.

If the radiator of the engine cooling system is leaking, there is no need to quickly change the radiator. Using the means to restore the working performance of the cooling system, there is a high probability that such a malfunction will be eliminated. When choosing a sealant to fix a radiator leak, it is necessary to determine what is on the market today and what tasks it needs to solve

Sealing tasks to repair a car radiator leak

The compositions used tend to collect in stagnant zones as they enter the system, where they form a fairly strong structure that prevents the release of coolant. Sealants reliably prevent the release of antifreeze or antifreeze in the place of incomplete soldering of copper radiators at the junction of plastic cans with an aluminum radiator through broken radiator pipes (before repair, it is necessary to squeeze the pipes above and below the leak with a tool to minimize cracks ) through the gasket (seals) of the pump or a thermostat (white spots from stains on the surface of the engine) through the pipes of the radiator and the heater tap, through the seal on the heater tap of the cabin heater (antifreeze flows into the cabin), from the heater cooler Cabin (the cabin smells of antifreeze and the glass sweats).
The principle of the sealant is simple. The sealant does not linger in places with constant flow (passage zones). In places where stagnant zones or a slight flow have formed, the particles of the sealant collect and have time to stick together. As a result, a kind of plug is formed which provides the seal.

Types of sealants for the elimination of leaks in a car radiator

If we turn to historical facts, mustard is worth mentioning. Dry mustard poured into the coolant of the cooling system (radiator) will eventually swell and have "low" properties of the sealant. As a result, the mustard is boiled and turns into a single lump in the standing zone. Unfortunately, this "treatment" is not always effective because mustard is still not a sealant. It has poor cohesive properties, and even if it does its job initially, it can be washed out and the flow re-opens. In addition, for its effective operation, too large a volume of mustard is required, as a result of which its excess can accumulate in the pipes, pipes and clog the passages.

Powder sealant for sealing car radiator leaks.

Powder sealers act like dry mustard. Above we have already described the functional principle of such sealants (using the example of mustard) as a plus low price, minus - low efficiency. Powder sealants for eliminating radiator leaks can be presented in the form of polymers, but are not. So powder is put in a bottle with liquid while the powder does not react, does not bake until it warms up. Most often these are bottles with fairly liquid formulations and distinctly separate fractions of powder and solution in which they are located. The polymer sealant for the radiator also has a uniform composition and color

Polymer sealant for repairing car radiator leaks.

There are now really good polymerizing sealants for radiators. (for example Higear - preparation HG9025 / 325 ml (HG9029 (FLOTTE) / 444 ml) HI-GEAR RADIATOR STOP LEAK - connection for repairing radiators and cooling systems)
They're usually sold in branded single-use cans like beer cans, but they're not cheap. The sealant is like a letterhead glue with an even consistency. The principle of operation is based on polymerisation when it comes into contact with air in a hot state. Simply put, add it to the radiator, warm up the engine, and the "crying" radiator "calms down" before our very eyes where the sealant is heated and actually reacts with air in places with leaks. Strong adhesions form at the leak. In this case, the radiator and stove pipes will not be damaged, since the sealant does not contain solid particles and there should not be any obvious amounts of air in the coolant.
Modern formulations Such sealing compounds do not evaporate, withstand high operating temperatures, remain in the system and prevent further leaks. Can be used with a wide variety of coolants
- antifreeze;
- antifreeze;
-Water;