Pine is good for carving chainsaws
Types of wood and their suitability for chainsaw carving
Very suitable types of wood for carving:
Oak provides us with a very good carving wood.
Once the sensitive sapwood has been removed, the untreated oak will survive almost all types of wood. Despite its heavy weight, oak is relatively easy to work with when dry. Rarely do individual, strong, usually numerous, smaller cracks appear, which is more manageable. For larger sculptures, oak is available in suitable dimensions in this country, but these have to lie correspondingly longer to allow at least a large part of the moisture to escape. The densely grown oak wood only dries very slowly. No iron may be hammered into oak. The tannic acid reacts with a blue-black discoloration (therefore stainless steel corrugated tape and screws).
Due to its dense core and the high resin content, the larch is in no way inferior to the oak in terms of durability. The very lively, reddish wood pattern with narrow sapwood, with a dense tree ring structure, results in an unevenly beautiful surface. After all, it needs a long and careful drying process in order to prevent the initially high tendency to rice. Larch wood reacts very strongly to the phases of the moon. Slowly grown, knotty trees that are felled with the waning moon tear significantly less after proper storage. Numerous resin pockets, adhesions and the often eccentric core result in an interesting wood image. After the yew, which is unfortunately rare, the larch is the heaviest and hardest native softwood species.
The elm has a special wooden structure. With a very attractive grain, the so-called "hoop heartwood" only tears moderately. A moderately susceptible sapwood surrounds the fairly durable heartwood. If the sapwood is not removed, then it is regular to paint with a lightly pigmented glaze in order to preserve the wonderful wood appearance of the elm outdoors for a longer period of time. Working comfortably, however, results in an unpleasant wood odor when working. Elm wood is known in the trade as "elm". With the breeding of resistant elm species one tries to stop the elm disease. This disease is triggered by a fungus that grows in the feeding ducts of the elm beetle and clogs the cells and water channels of the wood. The Dutch elm disease caused great damage, especially in Holland.
Relatively suitable types of wood for carving:
Robinia is our hardest and heaviest type of wood. It is relatively easy to work but rarely in larger diameters, so we prefer oak to "false acacia". The very attractive yellow-green to yellow-brown heartwood is surrounded by a light, very narrow sapwood. However, it should be treated with a pigment-containing glaze as it quickly darkens and turns gray. The heartwood is only mechanically destructible, exposed to the elements, even more durable than oak. In the past, wagon and mill wheels were made from robinia wood.
Sculptures made of wood that are set up outdoors can be made from a black pine. The wood of the black pine is coarser, richer in resin and more weather-resistant than that of the common Scots pine. The red-brown core, which is small compared to normal pine, is visually in contrast to the coarse grain with many knots, which makes the wood very attractive despite the high proportion of sapwood. In Austria in particular, the black pine is used extensively for the extraction of resin. The resin, which runs down through herringbone cuts, is regularly harvested by the so-called "Harzers" and processed into turpentine. Resin-coated trees show no stunted growth and are particularly suitable for certain uses due to an increased resin content in the trunk (so-called "pinewood"). Kienholz, caused by the disease "blister rust", burns brightly and is very suitable for lighting a fire. In the Middle Ages, pyres were made from pine wood for "burning of witches".
The wood of the sequoia tree provides us with lively, dark red-brown, overgrown wood with a very low tendency to tear. It is easy to work with and very resistant to fungi and insects.
Like the aromatic thuja and cypress wood, which has the same properties and smells, is unfortunately relatively rare in suitable strengths.
Yew, hemlock and juniper
Yew, hemlock and juniper would be suitable as carving wood, but are unfortunately extremely rare in desirable diameters.
We find a wonderful light brown / reddish brown grained wood pattern in the cedar. The tree, which in old age often has multiple stems and often has blue needles, is one of the most popular garden and park trees. The light, soft, resin-rich heartwood is highly insect and fungus resistant. Essential oils give the wood of the Western red cedar a strong scent. Unfortunately, the excellent carved wood cannot be found here and "local" cedars are seldom available. Fantastically grained, minimally shrinking, practically non-tearing and extremely weatherproof make the wood of Western red cedar the best and most expensive log house wood.
Rather unsuitable types of wood for carving:
With the "rather unsuitable types of wood", the most massive and repeated wood protection and the correct positioning of the sculpture are very important in order to preserve the sometimes very attractively drawn types of wood as long as possible.
The pine shows a sapwood / core pattern similar to that of larch and Douglas fir. Unfortunately, the heartwood is not exposed to the weather as permanently as generally assumed. Pine sapwood is not very weather-resistant and not very resistant to fungi and insects. Unfortunately, pine wood cracks relatively strongly. Due to the infestation of the blue fungus, the wood of the common pine is only suitable for the colored coating or only treated with fungus for the natural graying. The blue fungus found in many types of coniferous wood only changes the color of the wood. The blue to black discoloration has no effect on the strength of the wood. Unlike the occasional red streak of the spruce; here it can be assumed that the wood will soon rot.
The light and light wood of the spruce shows no core pattern. If left untreated, the wood, which is difficult to work with when dry, will die very quickly. Therefore, repeated wood protection is very important. Only heavily branched trunk pieces are suitable for carving, as the spruce will tear severely even after proper treatment. Thick-knotted wood travels less through the knot and is also much more attractively colored. The red stripes (see pine) must be observed here.
There are few differences to the wood of the silver fir. The silver fir is the only type of softwood that has no resin canals and thus, actually, no resin. In order to repair itself, if the trunk is injured, it can form resin canals in the wounded area of the wood. The big difference in weight from the fresh one is worth mentioning; very heavy to dry; very light wood. The large coastal fir, the Colorado fir and the blue spruce have similar properties that are unsuitable for carving and weathering. A strong resin flow conceals a high susceptibility to fungi, insects, the weather and cracks.
Unfortunately, the wood of the Douglas fir is very durable but very attractive, tearing strongly and lacking in resin. The reddish heartwood, which is difficult to distinguish from the larch, is very resistant to fungi and insects when exposed to the weather. Less resin galls and adhesions do not make it appear as lively as the wood of the larch. The fast-growing type of wood imported from North America is very strenuous to work with when dry and is one of the heaviest softwoods growing here. The special properties as timber make the Douglas fir the most important type of wood imported.
The lightest wood that we can grow is the strobe or white pine. Straw wood hardly cracks, is very sensitive to blue stain and somewhat more durable than spruce wood. In light wood, the sapwood / core delineation is not as clearly pronounced as in larch, pine and Douglas fir. A bacterial disease prevents strobes from getting very old in our case, if they are only attacked by the "bladder rust" they die very quickly. Mast booms for ships used to be made from straw trunks.
The wood of the red oak, which comes from North America, is not as durable as the wood of the German oak but more durable than some other types of hardwood. Once the vulnerable sapwood has been removed, the impregnated reddish, very hard wood will last for many years. Unfortunately it tends to crack but is relatively resistant to fungi and insects.
The very heavy wood, ash, which belongs to the so-called colored hardwoods, is only moderately weather-resistant and relatively susceptible to insects. Very elastic, it is ideally suited as sports equipment and tool handle and it is one of the more valuable veneer woods. The brown, often irregular core is not always visible and is surrounded by a wide yellowish sapwood. A special feature of ash wood is that sapwood and heartwood have the same properties in terms of strength and durability.
If left untreated, the very decorative wood of the cherry is unfortunately not very weather-resistant and susceptible to fungus. The very firm, dense reddish-brown cherry wood is one of the most valuable types of plywood.
The heavy, tough walnut wood is one of our most valuable timber. Unfortunately, the hard, chocolate-brown, often stained wood with light-colored sapwood is not fungus-resistant. It is moderately resistant to the elements. Occasionally the walnut tree forms root grain bulbs, which are very expensive for the production of veneers at timber auctions.
We find intensive, even colorful wood drawings on the fruit trees. The rather fragile, hard and very dense woods can only be worked with a lot of effort, but, in appropriate thicknesses, achieve higher prices than veneer wood.
Poplar provides us with popular wood carving because it is often cheap and thick. Poplar wood allows its moisture to escape slowly and is very light when dry. The overgrown tree ring structure resembles that of the strobe, and poplar wood hardly tears this either. These advantages are offset by the disadvantages of the boring grain of the light, dirty white wood and the susceptibility to weather, fungi and insects.
Unfortunately, horse chestnut wood is also susceptible and therefore unsuitable. The medium-weight, weakly pronounced, yellowish-white wood with a reddish tint has a low strength and does not survive very long exposed to the weather. However, the wood does not tend to crack and, as solid wood, is therefore in good hands indoors.
Completely unsuitable types of wood for carving:
These types of wood "harden" very quickly (self-rotten due to internal wood moisture), as there is no effective wood protection through core formation.
In the case of the linden tree, it should be noted that linden wood provides the best carving wood - for indoor use. Outside, exposed to the weather, it goes by very quickly.
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