What is ground solarization
Soil Solarization: An Easy Way To Harvest Weeds In 2021 - Mas to doc
Remove tree stumps to prepare the land for solarization. Liu Track / EyeEm / Getty Images
Soil solarization is a preventative, organic method of killing weeds before weed seeds sprout. But the advice below is also intended for homeowners who want to start a clean soil garden by reclaiming a piece of land that is overgrown with weeds, thereby minimizing future weed control efforts. Do you want to turn a piece of land that has gone "into the pot" into usable space?
Then the method described below can be the solution to your problems.
Preparing the soil for solar energy in the soil
There is a lot of work to be done as the solarization of the soil results in getting to the root of the problem underground. And we're not going to be short for herbicides, it means a little more work. But if you don't mind getting your hands dirty then let's roll up our sleeves and start stopping our madcap enemies in their tracks.
First chop the tall vegetation with sickle, power trimmer, etc. But before you do this, make sure you know how to identify Poison Ivy, Poison Sumac, etc. Check out pictures of poison ivy and poison sumac pictures to bring you up to date.
If there are shrubs and trees, cut them off with an ax or chainsaw. The soil needs to be smooth before you start solarizing the soil (since you will be spreading plastic over it) so you will need to remove the stumps left behind as well.
Some stump removal options are discussed in "Stump Removal". If you're looking for a cheap way to go, use a tool called a "hack". Dig and hoe your way under the root ball with the hoe to reach and remove the taproot. Warning: this is hard work and may only be feasible for smaller stumps.
Run a mower across the land to further reduce the height of the weeds.
Now that all the weeds are as short as possible and the stumps have been removed, hire a large drawbar to uproot any weeds. Since this plot is uncultivated, you will need a tiller that has some power: don't take on this task with a small garden cultivator! Allow the tines of the drawbar to dig deep enough into the ground to loosen the weeds so they can be removed - roots and all, if possible.
Now use a steel rake on the area you have just worked and wiggle it like a fine-toothed comb to remove most of the uprooted weeds. Next, rake the area again, this time with the aim of balancing the soil as much as possible and removing stones, twigs, etc. One final preparation for soil solarization, our organic weed control method, requires the use of a garden hose. According to the University of Idaho Extension (UIE), moisten the area you just raked to "conduct and retain heat, stimulate weed seed germination, and prevent subterranean vegetative plant parts from resting."
Biodegrading weeds through soil solarization: the method explained
You might be asking yourself at this point: "Why do I need soil solarization? Why can't I just lay some landscape fabric here, poke a few holes in it, plant my new plants, and then cover them with mulch?" Well, the reason why You can't is that your weed killing job has only just begun.
Weed seeds that cannot even be seen lurk beneath the surface, just waiting to sprout, and if the weeds are strong enough they will find a way back to the light (keep in mind that the integrity of the landscape tissue will be compromised when They're pounding holes for your new plants) so you'll need to kill those seeds before proceeding with landscaping fabric. And that's a job for soil solarization.
Cover the raked, moistened area with a clear polyethylene. The edges of the sheet can be held down by cinder blocks to prevent the plastic from being blown away. If the above shredding is done carefully enough, sharp objects will not stick to the plastic from 1 up to 6 mils thick. In the northern h The best time to solarize the soil is June and July when the sun is at its highest.
The UIE recommends keeping the clear plastic sheet taut over the surface for about 2 months. During this time the sun will kill weeds for you and "cook" them before they have a chance to sprout. Plant pathogens are killed to boot.
Now you really have a clean slate to work with. Remove the plastic and lay down the landscaping fabric. You should try to use one of the stronger types of landscaping fabric if possible, just in case, despite your best efforts, sharp objects remain in the ground (which would pierce the landscaping fabric).
When cutting slots in the landscaping fabric and installing new plants, be careful not to get dirt all over the landscaping fabric. Why should you prepare a home for aerial seeds? Sure you will apply mulch. However, airborne weed seeds can snake through mulch particles. If they find dirt, they are "weeds waiting to be passed."
Of course, if you use an organic mulch (such as a bark mulch) it will eventually crumble and become fertile soil for weeds. What can you do? Well, you'd better let new weeds grow. Strong roots that press downwards can stress and break through landscape tissue. On the light side, these weeds should be relatively easy to pull as mulch is much looser than dirt and weed roots aren't impossible to anchor firmly.
Speaking of mulch, the final step in this project is to apply a layer of it over your landscape fabric. Don't pile a lot of mulch around newly planted trees or shrubs; it invites disease. When old mulch breaks down, it must be removed and replaced with new mulch. For more, see garden mulch.
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